Fraxel Dual in NYC: What the 1550 nm and 1927 nm Wavelengths Each Treat

Your Medically reviewed by Jane Yoo, MD, board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon.

The short answer: Fraxel Dual combines two lasers in one system. The 1550 nm wavelength works deeper to improve texture, scars and fine lines. The 1927 nm wavelength works at the surface to treat sun spots and sun damage. Because my system has both, I can choose one wavelength or combine them based on what your skin needs.

How Fraxel works

Fraxel is a non-ablative fractional laser. Instead of treating your whole skin surface at once, it creates thousands of microscopic columns of controlled treatment, with healthy untreated skin between them. That untreated skin helps you heal faster than you would after older, fully resurfacing lasers, while the treated columns trigger your skin’s own renewal and collagen response. Goes Here

The two wavelengths, side by side

1550 nm (erbium)

1927 nm (thulium)

Depth

Deeper, reaches the dermis

Shallower, targets the top layers

Best for

Fine lines, uneven texture, acne scars, overall skin quality

Brown spots, sun damage, uneven tone, rough surface texture

How I think of it

Rebuilds structure

Clears the surface

Typical recovery look

Pink, mild swelling for a day or two

Tan or bronzed look that gradually flakes over several days

Who is a good candidate

  • You have sun damage, brown spots or uneven tone and want visible improvement without the longer recovery of a more aggressive laser.
  • You have acne scars or textural changes you want to soften gradually.
  • You want to improve skin quality on the face, neck or chest.

Fraxel can be used on a range of skin tones, but darker skin is more prone to post-inflammatory darkening, so settings must be conservative and treatment planned carefully. I assess this at your consultation. I use 3D VISIA imaging to look at pigment, texture and sun damage beneath the surface, which helps me decide where each wavelength belongs.

Who should wait or choose something else

  • Recent tan or sun exposure. Treatment is best timed when your skin is not tanned.
  • Active infection or an active cold sore outbreak. If you have a history of cold sores, tell me; preventive medication may be recommended.
  • Isotretinoin use within the recent past. Tell me about all medications.
  • Deep, stubborn melasma, which often needs a gentler approach. See Pico Laser for Melasma and Sun Spots.

What to expect: step by step

  1. Consultation and imaging. We review your goals, skin history and VISIA images, and I recommend a wavelength plan.
  2. Numbing. A topical numbing cream is applied before treatment.
  3. Treatment. The laser passes take a short time. Most patients describe heat and a prickling sensation.
  4. Right after. Your face will look pink or sunburned and feel warm, like a sunburn.
  5. Days 1 to 3. Redness and swelling are common. Skin feels dry and tight.
  6. Days 3 to 7. Skin may feel rough like fine sandpaper as treated pigment and surface cells shed. This is normal.
  7. After one week. Most patients are comfortable in makeup and daily life, with the improvement continuing for weeks as collagen remodels.

Most people need a series of treatments spaced several weeks apart, and I will tell you how many are realistic for your goals at your visit.

Aftercare essentials

  • Gentle cleanser and a simple moisturizer only, as directed
  • Strict daily sunscreen with SPF 50 and iron oxides; see my melasma sunscreen guide
  • No picking or scrubbing during flaking
  • Avoid retinoids and exfoliating acids until I clear you

How Fraxel compares with my other lasers

If your main concern is…

Often a fit

Why

Sun spots and tone with mild texture

Fraxel Dual

Combines surface and deeper treatment

Stubborn pigment or melasma

Pico laser

Short pulses with low heat

Deeper scars or more significant resurfacing

CO2 laser

Stronger resurfacing, longer downtime

Early skin laxity

Everesse (radiofrequency)

Tightens without resurfacing

I explain how I choose in How I Choose Between Fraxel, Pico, CO2 and RF.

Frequently asked questions

Does Fraxel hurt? With numbing cream, most patients tolerate it well and describe a hot, prickling sensation.

How long is Fraxel downtime? Expect several days of redness, dryness and flaking, with most people comfortable returning to social settings after about a week.

Is the 1927 nm wavelength a different treatment? It is a second wavelength in the same device, used for pigment and surface damage. I can use it alone or with 1550 nm.

Can I have Fraxel in summer? It depends on your sun exposure. Sun avoidance and sunscreen are essential, and I may recommend waiting for a lower-exposure season.

Will Fraxel treat melasma? Sometimes, but melasma is heat-sensitive and can worsen with the wrong settings. I evaluate each case individually.

Curious which wavelength your skin needs? Book a Fraxel consultation at my Midtown Manhattan practice at 162 West 56th Street.

author avatar
Dr. Jane Yoo Board-Certified Dermatologist and Mohs Surgeon
Jane Yoo, MD, MPP, is a Korean American board-certified dermatologist and fellowship-trained Mohs surgeon based in Midtown Manhattan. She is a Clinical Assistant Professor at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai and the founder of Jane Yoo MD, PLLC and the Clinical Research Center of New York. Dr. Yoo holds an undergraduate degree from MIT and a Masters of Public Policy from Harvard's Kennedy School of Government. She completed her Mohs micrographic surgery fellowship at Yale. Her clinical and research focus spans aesthetic clinical trials including injectables and laser technology, skincare formulation and sunscreen science, K-Beauty and skin of color, ultrasound guided filler dissolution, artificial intelligence and beauty tech. Dr. Yoo's research is indexed under ORCID 0000-0002-7112-8963.