Nanotechnology sounds like something out of a sci-fi lab, but it’s already quietly shaping the skincare products in your bathroom cabinet. From sunscreens to retinoid formulas, dermatologists have used nanosized ingredients for decades to solve real problems: irritation, poor absorption, and inconsistent results.

What Counts as “Nano”?

A nanoparticle is defined by size, not composition. Anything smaller than 100 nanometers qualifies. At this scale, familiar ingredients behave differently: they penetrate skin more effectively, stay stable longer, and release more gradually.

Dermatology generally splits these into two categories:

  • Organic nanoparticles
  • Inorganic nanoparticles

Organic Nanoparticles: The Delivery Vehicles

This category is mostly about transporting active ingredients into skin more comfortably.

Liposomes

Liposomes mimic a cell membrane’s structure, wrapping active ingredients in a lipid bilayer that merges well with skin and releases its payload gradually.

They’re especially useful for housing retinoids, which are notoriously irritating in raw form. Packaging them in liposomes limits how much concentrated retinoid the skin experiences at once, improving tolerability.

Ethosomes

Ethosomes are liposomes with added ethanol, which enhances penetration.

Transferosomes

Transferosomes use surfactants for a similar penetration-boosting effect.

Niosomes

Niosomes rely on non-ionic surfactants for improved stability and penetration.

Other Organic Nanoparticle Systems

Other forms include:

  • Solid lipid nanoparticles, which stabilize unstable actives and reduce water loss
  • Nanoemulsions
  • Polymeric nanospheres
  • Nanocapsules
  • Dendrimers

Inorganic Nanoparticles: The Sunscreen Workhorses

If you’ve used a mineral sunscreen, you’ve met this category already. Nanosized zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are staples in physical sunscreens.

Zinc oxide tends to be stronger against UVA, while titanium dioxide tends to be stronger against UVB. Nano-sizing is also why modern mineral sunscreens can go on more invisibly instead of leaving a thick white cast.

The Tradeoff

Inhaling these nanoparticles is considered harmful, and researchers continue to study whether they can penetrate skin and trigger reactive oxygen species, which are molecules linked to cellular stress.

Weighing the Risks and Benefits

Nanomaterial manufacturing releases particles that could disrupt biological systems, and substances that are otherwise harmless can behave differently once their surface area increases dramatically at the nano scale.

But that same property is what makes targeted delivery so promising. Smaller amounts of active ingredients can be deployed with precision, a concept already used in oncology for tumor-targeted drug delivery.

What’s on the Horizon

Some applications don’t exist yet but may not be far off.

Imagine a sunscreen that continuously releases zinc oxide or titanium dioxide from polymeric nanospheres, reducing the need to reapply every two hours. Or a moisturizer using niosome technology to slowly time-release hydration throughout the day.

Neither exists commercially yet, but they represent where dermatologic nanotechnology research may be headed.

References

Draelos ZD. “It’s a (Very, Very) Small World After All: Bringing the Nanoworld Into Focus for Dermatologists.The Dermatology Digest, June/July 2025

author avatar
Dr. Jane Yoo Board-Certified Dermatologist and Mohs Surgeon
Jane Yoo, MD, MPP, is a Korean American board-certified dermatologist and fellowship-trained Mohs surgeon based in Midtown Manhattan. She is a Clinical Assistant Professor at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai and the founder of Jane Yoo MD, PLLC and the Clinical Research Center of New York. Dr. Yoo holds an undergraduate degree from MIT and a Masters of Public Policy from Harvard's Kennedy School of Government. She completed her Mohs micrographic surgery fellowship at Yale. Her clinical and research focus spans aesthetic clinical trials including injectables and laser technology, skincare formulation and sunscreen science, K-Beauty and skin of color, ultrasound guided filler dissolution, artificial intelligence and beauty tech. Dr. Yoo's research is indexed under ORCID 0000-0002-7112-8963.